Quick Book - everything in summary

0. Basic strategy

You and your partner should focus on getting to a "game" on every hand possible, so you can get the 400 to 600 points for victory. The penalty for failure is usually small.

1. Check if your hand is balanced
2. Find out if you have 25 points between you
3. Do you have an 8-card match ?
   

With 25 and balanced, bid NT game.

With 25 and Major fit, bid Major game.

33 points is not a guide - it's essential

Don't include points for voids and singletons

It's all about raw strength

37 for a Grand Slam

As opener, bid your longest suits first.

4 cards is the minimum.

What counts is the number of trumps you have, more than how big they are. Your Aces & Kings will usually win whatever suit you chose as trumps.

What is balanced ?

Definition of balanced

1. no voids or singletons
2. max one doubleton

If no suit dominates, you can play in NT

• wide range of stoppers
• a long minor suit can be good

Less good for NT:

• a VERY flat hand (4333 distribution)
• a long strong Major suit
• isolated high cards

When to add:

• Prior to suit agreement (or in No Trumps), you should add length points: one for each card over 4 in a long suit.
• After suit agreement, you should add 5-3-1 shortage points instead of length points.

Shortage points

1. Don't include until you have suit agreement.
2. Need sufficient trumps to add 3 for a singleton
3. Never add for NT

Length points

1. >4 cards, 1 pt each
2. Suits: "6 & 4: bid some more"

The suit first bid will always be the longest.

The 'barrier' is the same suit as the opening bid, but one level higher.

The opener can re-bid above barrier with

• 16+ points
• but must not jump-shift without 19

but below barrier if

• 12-15 points

Barrier thoughts: opener's jump-shift should be kept in mind

Forcing? Yes. If, without a jump-bid, opener re-bids in a new suit & breaks the 'barrier'

• with a 2-level bid: forcing for one round
• at the 3-level: forcing to game

Responder's reverse is at 12 points, not 16.

Opener should tell partner what he has. But never break your barrier when you shouldn't. Otherwise:

• 5-4: LS (Long-Short)
• 6-4: LSL
• 6-5: LSS

With equal length, use denomination to select

• 5-5: HLL (High-Low)
• 6-6: HLLL

The first of these, 5-5, shows the same pattern as 6-5, unless the long suit is the low ranking suit.

Opener skips over a Major suit when re-bidding. Why ?

• he doesn't have it !
• provided the bid was available

Bypassing a NT re-bid means hand is not balanced

Count your HCPs = H

Add up the total number of cards in your longest two suits = T

If H + T = 25 or more, you can open in 2 of a suit

• provided your powerful cards are not wasted in your short suits

To decide whether to compete or not, the total number of tricks to be made by each side = the total number of trumps held by each side.

You are protected by "security of distribution" in bidding for as many tricks as your side holds trumps. Conditions:

(1) the point-count difference < 17/23, max 15/25

(2) vulnerability: equal or favorable.

With unfavorable vulnerability, your side must have as many high cards as the opponents (or more).

2. Opening bids

Evaluate your hand.
Work out your losing trick count.
Choose the second suit you'd bid, including planning any "reverse".
Choose your first bid.

Now bid.

And listen to what your partner then tells you.

Open 2NT with

• 20-22 HCP, &
• balanced hand, &
• no "problems"

Problem NT hands include:

• no 5-card minor
• honours not grouped
• weak doubletons

With a 20 HCP hand that has problems, usually better to open 1 of longest suit and rebid NT.

Consider modifying standard Acol, to require 21+HCP for 2 NT opening.

With 23+ points open 2 then rebid NT at the right level

• 23-24 2NT
• 25+ 3NT

2NT opening can be passed by responder with <4 HCP, but with 4HCP you can Transfer or Stayman if appropriate.

2 is forcing to game, unless followed by a 2NT rebid (promising 23-24HCP) which can be passed.

Evaluate your hand carefully

Plan your second bid before you say anything.

• Will you need to go through your barrier ?

With 12-19 points, you effectively start by saying “my longest suit is ‘x' ”

Open 3 of a suit only if

1. 6-10 points
2. 7-card suit
3. your HCP not isolated
4. 6 winners (7 if vulnerable)
5. No 4-card or side-suit

Why? Stop your strong opponents' contract (but accept losing up to 3 tricks, or 2 if vulnerable).

Partner only raises if he can make up the expected loss.

8-card suit, & 1 more winner? Open 4.

In the 2nd seat, you must be stronger:

• 2 of the top 3 honours (AKQ)

(because it's more likely your partner has the strong hand, you don't want to disrupt him, so your bid should be more informative than pre-emptive)

STRONG. With an 8-card 4-loser hand, you can use "Namyats", opening 2 steps lower than your Major. Partner will reply in your Major if no Slam interest.

3. Responder 1st bids

Beginners essentials:

• with 13+, get to game in a Major or NT
• with 11-12, invite to game in same
• with <11, game is out, so: pass or takeout

Beginners rarer stuff:

• with 16+ you can think about minor game, but try for NT
• with 19+ invite to slam
• with 21+ balanced, NT slam is certain

Advanced is similar, but

• use Stayman & Transfers to get to game more often, & for greater flexibility & accuracy
• with 19+ balanced, invite to NT slam
• with 17+ unbalanced, consider slam

You have <8 points.

Partner bid 1NT, enemy doubled.

With a 5-card suit, 7-card fit is guaranteed for your team:

• get into it, by re-doubling
• partner will automatically bid 2 Clubs
• you can then adjust this bid to 2 of the correct suit

With two 4-card suits, "wriggle" to find a 7-card fit

• bid the lowest ranking of the 2 suits
• if partner passes, he has 3 or more cards in this suit. Job done;
• if partner's is a 2-card suit, he goes up the line,
• if you've got 4 of this new one, Job done!
• if you don't have 4 of them, then bid your next highest 4-card suit,
• it must be a 7-card fit.

Always end up with a 7-card match at the 2 level. Sometimes 8 or 9-card.

Partner's view of a "pass" from you:

• you may have as many as 10 points, or
• you are happy with a 1NT doubled bid, or
• you have a 4333 hand with any points

. . worth a game-winning redouble?

Game could be on in a Major or NT. Tell partner with 2 Stayman.

If you don't use Stayman, decide if you are balanced or not, and then:

• balanced last < page
• unbalanced next > page

If you are balanced, do you have enough between you for a Small Slam in NT? (33+ HCP)

Invite (4NT) or assert Small Slam (6NT),

• 19-20 HCP: bid 4NT
• 21-22 HCP: bid 6NT

OR invite (5NT) or assert Grand Slam (7NT)

• 23-24 HCP: bid 5NT
• 25+ HCP: bid 7NT

(Similar calculations apply when opener bids NT on his first re-bid).

If you are not balanced, a suit slam is very likely. Therefore describe your hand with a jump bid to one less than game (3 of the suit).

"Fit". You like your partner's suit. He bid one of a suit; you've got 4+ cards in the same suit.

Since you have an 8-card match, tell your partner exactly what you've got, by support at various levels:

• Bid 2 with 6-9 HCP
• Bid 3 with 10-12 HCP
• Bid 4 with 13+ HCP
• With 16+ HCP, explore Slam

You can & should include Distribution Points (DP), because you have a fit.

Advanced players Use Jacoby 2NT and Splinters with game going support for a Major.

Generally, reply in NT, 'cos you're balanced. Use the right level.

NT replies are not forcing. With strong hands - do bid a new suit, to force your partner to keep bidding.

The 1NT reply can be a kind of "nothing bid", to keep the bidding going.

Beware of 1NT if you have singletons or voids, or weak doubletons.

You can support a Major opening with only 3-cards if you also have a doubleton.

If opponents have overcalled, experienced players can consider the alternative "negative double".

Beware the 2NT bid: For advanced players, the "Jacoby 2NT" reply to 1 or shows 4-card support to game, with no shortages.

With 16+ HCP, Slam on ! Better tell partner. But how?

You must select a bid which forces your partner to bid again.

Let your partner know how strong you are, but not necessarily on the first bid.

Only "jump shift" to a new suit when you have a single re-biddable 6-card suit, but

• a 5-card will do if you have either 4-card support for partner, or a NT rebid.
• (called a "jump-fit")

With 8 points, things are looking very good, so give a positive and natural response (game is certain, and Slam could be on)

• support with 3 cards, and include distribution if you do
• with 2 tricks, raise to Major game (weak)
• with stronger hand raise to 3 (an Ace required)
• only change suit with a good 5-card suit
• with interest in NT, avoid bidding 2NT - see below
• all these are forcing to game

With <8 HCP, a slam seems very unlikely, and a game is not certain, so give a negative response (2NT, or 2 after a 2 opening), and see what partner says next.

Remember that more advanced players use "Weak 2" openings, which have a different meaning.

Nearly always pass, but

Are you vulnerable ?

• Yes: raise with 3 winning tricks
• No: raise with 4 winning tricks

Was partner in 2nd seat ?

• Yes: Bid 3NT with 1/3 top trumps and stoppers in all other suits

You should have thought about this earlier!

Now's the time to refine what you've told partner

• 12-15 HCP, or
• 16-18 HCP, or
• 19-20 HCP

. . . and whether you have a 2nd suit.

You are obliged to rebid if your partner bid a new suit.

With 16+ HCP, your main choices are:

• jump rebid your first suit with 6-cards
• jump support partner's new suit with 4-cards
• jump bid a new suit with 4-cards
• break barrier with a new suit, 4 cards

Take into account the level of your partner's 1st bid; 1-level bids need more strength from you.

Respect your barrier, unless you want to mislead your partner. Yes, you need to have thought about your rebid at the time you made your first bid.

Don't miss a 3-5 major fit, when responder proposes a major suit.

If not sure partner's 1st suit = 5-card:

• assume it was, but give delayed support
• partner will go back to the suit if it was a 5-card major

3 responder situations:

1. 5-5, 4-4
2. 5-4
3. other, e.g. 5-3-3-2,

Case 1 it's usually clear. Responder will bid 5-card suits down the line, and 4-card suits up the line,

Case 2 it's clear sometimes. With 5-4 he bids length first. If the 5-card suit is higher denomination, no problem.. But if the 5-card suit is hearts, and the 4 card is spades, it will sound like a 4-card suit in hearts.

Case 2 it's not clear. Responder is v. unlikely to repeat a 5-card suit, preferring to, e.g. rebid NT, or support one of your suits.

As opener, if 5 might be there, but it's not definite, your responses are these

• 4-card = immediate support always
• 3-card = delayed support (5 might be possible)
• 2-card = double delay (6 might be possible)

5. Responder rebids

Reflect on everything you've learned:

• what your partner has told you in his 2 bids (e.g. a 5-card first suit)
• the combined shape of your hands
• your combined strength
• the enemy's strength

Then act:

• show your preference if partner has bid 2 suits
• only rebid your suit if it's long (6-cards) and strong
• use "4th Suit Forcing" if it's still not clear (10 HCP at the 2-level, 13+ for higher)
• "invite" if game could be on, end the bidding ASAP if not
• bid NT at the one level if there's no fit

If game or slam could be on, keep the bidding going, using things like

• common sense
• Losing Trick Count
• "4th Suit Forcing"
• splinters
• Sam bidding techniques

If you can see that game is obvious, and in what denomination, make a closing bid at that level.

If the opposition are interfering, calculate the cost of any sacrifice on their part, or yours

Use only when responding to opener's repeat of the same suit, or when he switches to NT on his second bid.

Rebid above the barrier with:

• 12+ HC Points

The 'barrier' is at the same suit as responder's first bid, but one level higher.

Usually forcing to game.

Bid 2 to find 8-card Major

. . .after 1NT opening, with 4-card Major & 11+ points.

Opener then reveals his 4-card Major count:

1. none, bid 2
2. at least 1 in , bid 2
3. only one in , bid 2

Responder then either:

1. confirms any 8-card match, 3or=inviting, 4=game, or
2. denies any match with 2 or 3NT.

Opener finally:

1. with 14HCP, converts invitation to game, &
2. with two 4-card Majors, converts a NT to the major

Other uses:

1. weakness takeout transfer to 2 of anything but
2. weakness takeout to 3
3. with 2 Majors both any length 4+
4. after 2NT

Don't use if you have

1. a single 5-card Major
2. singleton or void, except

After 2NT opening, you still need 5-card Major to transfer

Bid one less than you mean:

1. with , bid 3
2. with , bid 3

and opener will accept by blindly bidding what you meant.

Responder's rebids:

1 Weak (0-4): pass

2 Game (5-10):

1. with 5, bid 3NT
2. with 6, bid 4, or a Texas Transfer

3 Possible Slam (11+):

1. with 5, bid something different
2. with 6, bid something different

33+ HCP for NT slam. Brute strength needed

30 HCP for suit slam, including shape points. Ruffing important

HCP and LTC assessment is not enough. Need to check for controls

• Blackwood
• Cue bidding
• Splinters
• Jacoby 2NT

Re-evaluate your suits in the light of partner's bids

Try to avoid going straight to 4 of a Major if a slam is on: it's weak

It can be sheer HCP strength and precision bidding, hence the name "quantitative bidding"

• 37 for NT Grand Slam
• 33 for NT Small Slam

If from the bidding so far you can see that 33 is

• certain: bid 6NT
• possible: bid 4NT

If from the bidding so far you can see that 37 is

• certain: bid 7NT
• possible: bid 5NT

Bid on what probability ?

• 75% for Grand
• 50% for small

4NT is not asking for Aces in NT. Use Gerber 4.

Ever noticed that some people can get to Slam more often than you? Are they just born risk takers?

When you're familiar with Blackwood & Quantitative bidding, learn:

• Jacoby 2NT
• splinter

Also useful:

• cue bidding for controls
• Roman Keycard Blackwood

Or the rare but quite simple

• Grand Slam Force

It's an interfering bid, aim is to obstruct stronger enemy, and get foot in the door.
Be more cautious when vulnerable.

Go to the limit fast if it's competitive. If enemy drop out, go slowly, use LTC.

Must have 5 or more cards for a suit overcall. An exception is Landy 2 over weak 1NT.

Cards and Points for higher level overcalls:

6c & LTC=6: Jump
7c & <10p: preempt 3
8c & <10p: preempt 4

5c & 18p: double & rebid the suit
6c & 16p: double & rebid the suit

You have to bid at the two level.

The requirements on Length and Strength are more stringent:

• an opening hand, 7-losers
• 6-card suit, or a 5-4

Bid 3 (not 2) to show clubs, if you use Landy

Double six ! You need

• 6 cards
• 5/6 points
• Same as a weak-2 opening

Respond

• pass, usually
• 2NT if interested in game

Careful! Some people still jump overcall for stronger hands

• opening hand 11-15 HCP, 6 losers

Other bids

• With a 5-card suit, use a simple overcall.
• With 16-19 HCP, you'd double, then bid the 6-card suit.
• In the old days: with 20+, cue bid opponent's suit, but this bid is now more usually reserved for a Michael's Cue bid.

Very strong:

Old meaning: with 20+, cue bid opponent's suit, a simple point count.

New meaning: I've got two 5-card suits, at least one is a Major, 8-15HCP. So, not used for very strong hands any more.

See Michael's cue bid

Remember, they are weak, and trying to steal your contract, so be aggressive.

To overcall a Preemptive opening bid at the 3 level you only need:

• 12+ HCP
• a 6-card suit, or a v. strong 5+

If you are very strong (say 5-losers, 6-card suit):

• double (it's forcing), and then
• rebid your own suit next time

Overcalling in NT is harder after a weak-3 preemptive opening than after a weak-2.

To double (for takeout!) at the three level, & forcing a possible 4-level response, you need

• shortness in opener's suit
• 4441 ideally
• 6-loser hand

In the pass-out seat, be more aggressive

• borrow a king

Do not double for penalties 1st time round

Responding to the overcall:

• do not suggest your own suit after a suit overcall: a new suit is a cuebid showing interest in a Slam

if you can choose either

• a suit overcall or
• double for takeout

double for takeout is better:

• stronger
• promising 3 suits
• keeps the bidding lower.

Our 1NT response systems have been destroyed!

Lebensohl is a way of keeping systems open, now that Stayman & Transfers are off. Cue bid the enemy suit instead of Stayman 2

1. 2 level new suit (non-forcing)
2. 3 level new suit, force to game
3. 2NT is intermediate, starts a weaker auction
4. Double is for penalty
5. Re-instate Stayman (bid enemy suit)

Route 3, intermediate 2NT, allows bid of lower ranking suit than RHO's, without forcing to game. Works by forcing opener to blind relay 3

Route 1 is not always open; might use Route 3 instead

For NT game, can also explore who holds stopper in enemy suit, by using Route 3 and 5 in combination

With 16+ HCP, you should double RHO's weak 1NT opening.

This is serious stuff. It's a real double, for penalties.

Your partner will almost always pass with a sly smile. The exception is if partner has 9+ HCP and the vulnerability is favourable.

When vulnerable, before doubling, do you have a strong lead and entries ? A flat hand might be poor.

After a penalty double of a NT bid, subsequent doubles are all for penalties. Eg. 1NT - doubled - 2 - doubled.

18+ needed after strong NT opening.

4-cards in the unbid Majors.

"Partner, I would have responded 1 if opponents hadn't overcalled 1"

Allows you to keep bidding when opponents have messed it up !

The "negative" double promises:

• the missing Major, at least 4-cards
• responding strength, usually 6-15
• but 8+ if it might force partner to the 3 level

But bidding the suit itself shows 5+ cards

• provided you could've doubled to show 4

If the suits bid so far are both Majors

• implies two 4-card minors

Opener rebids as if the enemy had not interfered, and knowing the suit length

• Partner, I re-bid x, knowing what your new-suit response wanted to be
• & I knew is was a force, of course!

I don't care for your suit ! But. . .

• I've got some points
• not enough for a 2-level bid
• ..and they could be in trouble with their 1NT.

Please either bid another suit, or if you're strong leave it as a double for penalties.

Generally think twice about doubling for penalties

• rewards often low
• gives information to enemy
• risks can be high

Double when 90% certain they'll go down 2 if

• they've overcalled
• they've sacrified
• they've bungled

Doubling is never for penalties after

• 1/2-level suit bids
• weak 2/3 openings

Doubling is always for penalties after

• a NT bid
• any subsequent bid

Doubling is for lead direction after

• cue bid
• a convention requiring a response

Tell your partner what to lead

Double the enemy's control finding cue bid or Blackwood response. Partner will lead it to you if he was awake.

Opener, rebid a "double" everyone partner passes an overcall if

• you are short in enemy suit

There is a chance you can get them down.

Partner will correct if appropriate.

Responder is saying "Major game is certain, no singletons or voids, is Slam on?" So Opener must now:

1. show a "splinter": bid 3 in new suit, or
2. deny a "splinter": bid anything else

Responder will assess the value to his hand of opener's splinter, hoping to find it opposite his weak suit.

When denying a splinter, opener can specify strength and support:

1. 12-13: sign-off, Game in Major
2. 14-15: 3NT
3. 16-19: 3 in the major
4. 16-19 with 2nd suit: 4 in new suit

Mess up the enemy's bidding when you are weak but long

6-10 points
Good 6 card Major
(Good = KJ, or QJT)
Nobody else has bid

Partner will usually pass, unless he has points for game (16+, bid 2NT), or can further mess up the opponents.

When opener does have to rebid, after a 2NT artificial reply from partner, he must clarify his level of weakness

• use 3 , in order, to show increasing P/T strength
• P=points, T=trump honours
• use 3NT to show AKQ in trumps

Don't do it if you have a 2nd 4-card Major

• You are strong !
• "6 & 4, bid some more"
• Don't miss a Major fit

With 17/18 & Major fit, partner with 6-9 will bid major game if he

• has control in your side suit after one loser, or
• ditto after 2-losers if he's on max HCP

Your side suit has one top honour & 2+ other losing cards.

Explanation After the 1-2 you bid a second suit, e.g. 1-2-3. You have extra values > 16 points guaranteed with a 3 bid, & need help in .

"Help" = control the suit after one loser, or max 2 losers if on max. 9 HCP. A void, singleton or doubleton plus a four card trump suit is good, or an A or Kx or Qxx are also a great help.

Counter try
With no help, "counter try" in another suit, at the 3-level only.

Minor agreement, new suit=stopper
If suit agreement is in a minor not a Major, then a new suit asserts a stopper, and is asking partner to bid 3NT if can fill the outstanding gap.

You really need 6 cards.

Simplest method, after 1NT:

• bid 2; opener relays 3
• pass if was your goal
• convert to if goal

But this fights with precision balanced reply to 1NT

• bid 2NT with exactly 12 HCP
• bid 2 with exactly 11 HCP

So either use a hybrid. . ...

• bid 2NT with exactly 12 HCP
• bid 2 with exactly 11 HCP balanced, or with 6-card minor

• opener rebids 2NT with 12HCP, or 3 with 14, leaving partner to choose between passing and the minor suit (or putting it back to NT in the latter case)

Or best of all:

• use Stayman, and rebid the minor if needed

With 17/18 & Major fit, partner with 6-9 will bid major game if he

• has control in your side suit after one loser, or
• ditto after 2-losers if he's on max HCP

Your side suit has one top honour & 2+ other losing cards.

Explanation After the 1-2 you bid a second suit, e.g. 1-2-3. You have extra values > 16 points guaranteed with a 3 bid, & need help in .

"Help" = control the suit after one loser, or max 2 losers if on max. 9 HCP. A void, singleton or doubleton plus a four card trump suit is good, or an A or Kx or Qxx are also a great help.

Counter try
With no help, "counter try" in another suit, at the 3-level only.

Minor agreement, new suit=stopper
If suit agreement is in a minor not a Major, then a new suit asserts a stopper, and is asking partner to bid 3NT if can fill the outstanding gap.

The 5 keycards are the 4 Aces + King of Trumps.

Got 2 keycards? Find Q !

• 5=0 or 3
• 5=1 or 4
• 5=2 or 5 (no queen)
• 5=ditto (+ queen)

More questions:

• trumps=no more questions
• trumps+1 = have you got the Queen ?
• 5NT=which King you got ?
• -ve replies: use trumps

Junior can bid on after "NMQ" if he had 3/4 Keycards

• as if senior bid "trumps+1"

Even more questions

• any more Kings ?(bid the suit, reply in trumps=-ve)
• anything useful (bid the suit, having not asked 5NT King question)

"My overcall says I've got two 5-card suits".

2NT (unusual !): I've got 2 good minor suits, or the missing minor + a random Major (call enemy's suit to enquire which one)

2 of the enemy's suit: I've got 2 good Major suits, or the missing Major + a random minor (call 2NT to ask me which one) 

Your rebid clarifies if weak or strong (8-15HCP).

Response: It's forcing unless there's an intervening bid: choose best of the two, jumping to encourage; bid opener's suit to force to game; or 3NT if strong and stopped in the other 2 suits.

Enemy called 1NT, but you have an opening hand with 2 long Majors?

Call 2 ("Landy")

Your HCP strength MUST be in the Majors. Also

• 6 losers (7 if not vuln)
• 5-5 or 5-4 suit length
• (4-4 not usually good enough)

Your partner must know that 3 is the standard Club overcall!

Response (even with zero HCP):

• ALWAYS respond (unless 7)
• Longer Major, according to fit, LTC & HCP
• 2 if same length, to ask partner for longest Major

Rarer responses:

• 2 if 10-12 HCP
• 2NT if 13+ and no 4-card Major

Other overcalls of 1NT that go well with Landy

• 2// = natural 6-card suit
  • ditto, good 5-card in last seat
• 3 = natural club overcall
• Double = for penalties = 15 or 16 to 18